Editor's February Pick #10: Tempting Tansy

Editor's note: Again following on from the history of the previous pick I landed on the piece below. I hadn't heard of the Tansy herb before, and looking it up apparently its companion the Tansy beetle is only found in two locations in the UK these days. Told you I liked the learning! I'm also a big fan of misnomers - that the recipe has the herb in the name but doesn't include it! Who can say no to apples and cinnamon in a pudding.

Rib Stickers!

Tempting Tansy

Here's a brief piece of history – tansy is a perennial herb, with yellow flowers producing a bitter sweet taste. Back in the day it had many uses, from an addition to puddings to a medicinal tea. Thankfully, it is not used in desserts these days, – too much is thought to be poisonous - it's only the name that remains which sounds like a good plan!

Damson (or plum) & Apple Tansy

Serves 4

2 large Cox's apples, peeled and thinly sliced

225g damsons, halved stoned and quartered (or plums)

15g unsalted butter

40g sugar

pinch ground cloves

pinch ground cinnamon

4 eggs, separated

3 tbsp double cream or soured cream

Put the apples, damsons (or plums), butter and half the sugar into a large frying pan.

Cook over a gentle heat until the fruit is softened, stirring continuously. Stir in the cloves and the cinnamon, remove from heat.

Beat the egg yolks with the cream and stir into the fruit. Whisk the egg whites until stiff, then carefully fold in.

Cook over a low heat until the mixture is set. Sprinkle the top with the remaining sugar then brown under a hot grill. Serve immediately, straight from the pan with clotted cream. You could even serve it with home-made vanilla ice cream – or both!

This is another candidate for the “straight from the pan” pud and not a tansy in sight.

Minimum effort – maximum yum!

Editor's February Pick #9: Classy Chowder

Editor's note: Now I absolutely adore the little historical tidbits that are peppered throughout the archives of MiamMiam. It could be the former student in me, spent too much time in the bar and not enough time getting the RDA of learning, but here we are. Someone says to me "chowder" I immediately go to clams, and immediately switch off - personal preferences and all that. But wait! I implore you to have a read through this, possibly learn a little and maybe even give the recipe a go. Veggie chowder, and not a clam in sight! More than likely vegan alternatives available if required.

Loop the Loop

Classy Chowder

There's a theme here – like the Vichyssoise. Where does the chowder originate? What is a traditional version? We could be here for some time! I must confess I'd always thought of the chowder as American and as far as clam chowder is concerned I think that's true. Originally it was a fish chowder or, if you like, a fish stew made with milk or cream. New England Clam Chowder uses crumbled crackers to thicken it. There are different types – I'd always thought of it as that delicious creamy white soup – but you can have clear and tomato versions too.

The word is thought to have originated firstly from the Latin word calderia – meaning a place for warming and later to mean cooking pot, that then evolved to French – chaudiere, meaning stew pot, moving on to Northern French and English – cauldron and then finally an old English word jowter, meaning a fish peddler. It was a popular with Northeastern American Indians, again principally because they made use of the fish they caught.

Before you get bored, here's a recipe which is vegetarian and uses the potato and flour to thicken.

Sweetcorn Chowder

50g unsalted butter

1 potato, finely diced

1 carrot, finely diced

1 onion, finely diced,

1 red pepper, finely diced

2 cobs of sweetcorn or 175g canned

1 tbsp flour

1 litre of milk

salt and black pepper

chopped flat leaf parsley

Sweat the vegetables in the butter for 10 minutes – covered. Add the flour and seasonings. Pour on the milk. Simmer for 20 minutes, stirring frequently. Check seasoning. Blend a ladle or two and add back to the soup to thicken and enrich. Sprinkle with parsley.

Traditional accompaniments to a chowder are Tabasco and Worcestershire sauce, both should be served at the table.

Whilst it isn't authentic I'd serve the chowder with dumplings. If you wanted to add pieces of cooked chicken breast for the non-veggies, there are no rules!

What does seem to be a common thread, whoever the chowder belongs to, is that there is obviously a connection to fishing and making use of what was plentiful from the villages along the French and Cornish coasts to America.

There's plenty of room for everyone to take a share!

Editor's February Pick #8: Stock Isn't Just For Soup

Editor's note: Speaking of spuds, after the ricer I got a hankering for something different with the good old spud! What follows is a delicious recipe that gives you perfect "Winter potatoes" - a welcome change from the norm! 

Your veggie stock isn't just for making soup.

There are excellent recipes using potatoes – try this one on for size, as they say.

Boulangere potatoes uses onions, fresh thyme, thinly sliced potatoes and veggie stock.

Boulangere potatoes

Serves 8

2 onions, sliced thinly

2 sprigs of fresh thyme

2 tbsp rapeseed oil

1½kg/3.3lbs of potatoes – Maris Piper

or Desirée, sliced thinly *see below

425ml/15fl oz/¾ pint of veggie stock

Pre-heat your oven 180fan/200c/Gas 6.

Fry the onions and thyme sprigs in the oil for 5 minutes.

Spread a layer of potatoes over the base of a 1.5litre oiled gratin dish. Sprinkle over a few onions and keep layering with the potatoes. Your top layer should be potato. Add your stock and bake until the potatoes are cooked and the top is golden and crisp. 50/60 minutes.

There is nothing to stop you prepping and part cooking this dish in advance – when time permits. Cook it for half the time. Remove from the oven, cool, cover with foil and fridge.

Supper the next day. Pre-heat your oven as above. Line a baking sheet with smoked back bacon – as much as you want to serve.

Place the potatoes and the bacon in the oven. Set your timer for 15 minutes, turn the bacon, repeat.

Enjoy!

Notes:

*If you wanted a couple of suggestions for a suitable US variety of potato, Yukon Gold or Russets (my favourite) would fit the bill.

Finally, a useless bit of information - do you know why they are called “Boulangere” potatoes?

I'm sure I'm stating the obvious. A “boulangerie” is a bakery “en francais”. There would be one bakery in a village. Villagers would take their potato dishes to the baker and they'd all be cooked in the one oven after the bread was baked for the day, making the best use of the ovens as they cooled down.

That's what I call organised!

Editor's February Pick #7 - Fishcake Foto Guide

Editor's note: It's quite on trend these days to rice anything and everything if it isn't nailed down. I mean cauliflower rice? Surely just eat the vegetable! I'm a traditional kinda guy and I think a ricer is for potatoes! What a satisfying sight - lump-free potatoes ready to transform into fab fishcakes. Feast your eyes on these!

Fishcake foto guide

There are quite a few fotos, here goes :

Finely chopped onion with the spices

Fluffy mashed potato, riced

The ingredients, ready to form into cakes

The cakes before flouring and frying

The cakes fried, ready to bake

Three different sizes of cake

The appetiser size of cake with rendang sauce

and topped with mango chutney

A size to suit every occasion!

Editor's February Pick #6: Your recipe reservoir - Spiced Asian Fishcakes

Editor's note:  There isn't much I wouldn't eat when you've added Rendang sauce to it, and these fish cakes are definitely on the fab side of that scale. For something that looks fantastic (the taste needs no introduction) it's a remarkably straightforward recipe. Like a lot of the recipes on the blog it's practical in that it can be done in stages whenever you've got the time. Worth a shot!

Your recipe reservoir

Everyone has their own favourite recipes, for me the success of any recipe is the frequency I use it and its versatility. I'm sure you've already got your own reservoir but there's always room for more!

It's the working week suppers that are the most tedious, so here are a few more ideas that will give you back your evenings. My next addition to your collection is a “fish supper dish” and lends itself to prep ahead whilst you're in the kitchen cooking and your oven is on.

Spiced Asian Fishcakes … with a sauce and a side

The Ivy fishcake recipe is the best I've ever used. This is my version - Spiced Asian Fishcakes with some added bits and pieces.

(makes 8 – freeze what you don't use)

800g dry mashed potato, no cream or butter added

650g salmon fillets

2 tbsp tomato ketchup

2 tsp anchovy essence

3 tsp English mustard

salt and black pepper

1 medium onion, finely chopped – use a

sweet variety if possible a Spanish if not

1 tsp each of ground coriander, curry powder

and garam masala

drop of rapeseed oil

Plain flour for coating

This is one recipe where I'd recommend using a ricer to give you a lump free mashed potato. It's definitely worth the effort. It can be made ahead, boxed or bagged and fridged.

I bake my salmon fillets, tightly wrapped in foil on a baking tray – 180fan/200c/Gas 6 for 15 minutes. Leave wrapped to cool then flake the salmon then box and fridge until ready for use.

Sauté the onion in a drop of rapeseed oil and add 1 tsp each of coriander, curry and garam masala – 2/3 minutes on a medium heat. Cool and set aside, box and fridge until ready for use.

When you're ready to roll gently mix together the potato, salmon, ketchup, anchovy essence, mustard, onions and seasoning. Mould the mixture into 8 round cakes and refrigerate.

When you're ready to serve preheat the oven 180fan/200c/gas 6. Lightly flour the fishcakes and fry them until they are coloured on both sides. Bake for 10/15 minutes.

Editor's February Pick #5: Chocolate Bark Photo Guide

Editor's note: These photos were too good not to show them off. There's the reference to Jackson Pollock but it really does look like edible art! I call this one "Licence to Stick My Head In the Fridge When No-One Is Looking". Honestly, give it a go. Pipe out a design in the middle of it, use it as a cake decoration. Make a sack of them for sneaking into the cinema. The world is your sweet treat!

the baking tray, oiled and lined

with cling film – you can see it's not moving

the melted chocolate poured onto

the tray

the “Jackson Pollock” moment

the chards of bark

I don't expect it will last too long but you could freeze a box. Here's a thought – need a fast summer dessert – a scoop of home-made ice cream, seasonal fresh berries – strawberries and raspberries top of the list at the moment - topped off with a chard or two of chocolate bark.

What I like about the mini versions of the fudge and honeycomb is that they are just that – mini - so in reality you only get tiny bits in your sweet treat.

I don't feel quite so guilty now!

P.s. I should have said – the salted caramel fudge and honeycomb came from Aldi and each cost 85p for 100g.

Editor's February Pick #4: Chocolate Bark

Editor's note: Whilst we're talking about sweet treats it's time to take it up a notch with this next piece. If you're entertaining this has that wow factor that will enhance any table. It's along similar lines to the Rocky Road recipe but don't be deceived. Either zhuzhing a pudding. eating on its own or with some ice cream (see above!) it will go with everything and even makes me look like I know what I'm doing. At least it did until I got sous and Sioux mixed up and apparently it wasn't appropriate kitchen attire. The jokes aren't the best, so sous me - sorry!

A little bit of what you fancy …

does you good – that's my excuse!

Here goes :

Chocolate Bark

420g

You'll need :

A baking tray 32x22cms – 12½”x 8½” approximately in old money! You'll also need a drop of oil to wipe onto the tray and a sheet of cling film.

A handful each of the salted caramel fudge pieces, honeycomb and mini marshmallows. It occurs to me that a handful really depends on the size of your hand, to be more specific, 60g of the fudge and 30g each of the honeycomb and marshmallows.

Line the baking sheet with cling film. You will find the cling film easier to control if you oil the baking sheet first.

Break 300g of dark or milk chocolate into pieces and put in a bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and melt. You choose the balance of dark and milk – I used 200g dark and 100g of milk chocolate. You need to bear in mind you're adding sweet elements and so more dark will give you a better balance but not too bitter.

When the chocolate has melted pour it onto the cling filmed sheet.

Scatter the fudge, honeycomb and marshmallows randomly over the chocolate. Wearing a disposable glove use the flat of your hand to press your scatterings into the melted chocolate. Do not panic, it will stick to the glove but will lift the chocolate and create a drizzled effect.

Leave to set for 4 hours before breaking into chards. You can snap it into irregular pieces or cut it using a chef's knife.

I realise that this “treat” is definitely not healthy, nor is it meant to be consumed in large quantities – sometimes a little bit of what you fancy does you good – keep it fridged and that way you have to work harder to enjoy it. You could offset the unhealthy with a handful of finely chopped nuts of your choice and/or chopped fruit – apricots work very well with dark chocolate.

Photos up next …