Paprika … which is it to be

… Hungarian or Spanish?

In the overall scheme of things it probably doesn't matter that much.

I always thought in this day and age of “foodies” that most supermarkets, certainly the larger ones, sold every herb and spice known to man! Lets face it, you can buy ras el hanout and za'atar to name but two exotic spice mixes - even in my neck of the woods. Why then can you not buy Hungarian paprika – grrr.

Hence my mission – a simple enough task you'd think – think again – suffice it to say that all I could find was Spanish or “product of more than one country”. I used Spanish paprika and should say I'm not in any way against it - it's a great product. It's just that Hungarian goulash should have Hungarian paprika.

I'm sure you know what's coming next – use your favourite on-line grocery – which is where I should have gone in the first place.

Rant over, here's the goulash, complete with dumpling!

Here's the Hungarian paprika – two choices - sweet smoked and sweet :

Just before I go - a post script – about the goulash - next time round I'm adding diced chorizo, fried until crisp - oil and all, to the recipe. It can be cooked ahead and then folded in before cooking the dumplings. I'll add 250g of diced chorizo to the recipe.

Another post script – about the beef - in a perfect world shin beef is the best cut to use when slow cooking your goulash. The “shin” works hard and so has lots of connective tissue - slow cooking it gives you a moist and tender result – perfect for this dish.

Soup recipe coming next!

Thoughts on dumplings …

... potatoes and soup.

How positively boring does that sound. Bear with me, you know I have your best interests at heart.

Lets take this stuff in order :

I pushed the boat out this weekend when friends came for supper and – drum roll please – served dumplings too with the goulash. I made them using vegetarian suet – no-one asked if they were vegetarian or not – I'd wager you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. Minutes to prepare and 20 minutes to cook when re-heating the goulash.

I chose Charlotte potatoes to serve with the goulash. Fantastic firm potato – I par boiled them, let them cool and then peeled ready for the last 20 minutes. Try and make sure your potatoes are a similar size so that they cook evenly. Place them in a casserole or a foil tray, add a couple of knobs of butter, cover with foil and pop into a pre-heated oven 180fan/200c/Gas 6 whilst your dumplings are cooking.

I have not forgotten the non meat eaters - far from it, since I'm in the same boat. Why should we miss out on the Autumn comfort.

I made myself one of my favourite soups – what I call a “rib sticker” - it's thick and chunky – carrot, coriander and chick pea. The soup benefits from being made a day before if you prefer – it also uses Charlotte potatoes so fits in with the shopping list. The dumplings cook well sat in the thick soup - 20 minutes whilst re-heating the soup gently.

You don't have to wait for visitors - feet up in front of your favourite boxed set works well too.

Peasant food at its absolute best.

Hungarian rhapsody ...

… not in the musical sense! You probably wouldn't imagine using the word “rhapsody” or actually “rhapsodic” attributed to food, however, to the extent that one can be enthusiastic and excited about it I don't see why not.

I'm sure it's no surprise that the “Hungarian” refers to goulash. This time of year when it's turning cold it's difficult not to get bored once you've exhausted all the old favourites.

Here's my latest thought, “zhuzhed” a little. These days goulash seems to be served with rice or, spatzle (a soft egg noodle). I'm an old fashioned kinda gal with certain dishes and goulash is one of them. I like to serve mine, as was done in the 70s, with new potatoes. The ultimate comfort food however you want to serve it – by the way don't forget the sour cream - stirring in or even a blob on top – optional of course.

Hungarian Goulash

Serves 4-6 depending on size of appetite

900g braising steak, diced

glug of rapeseed oil to seal the beef

1 large onion, chopped as finely as possible

*8 tbsp tomato ketchup

*2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

*1 tbsp soft dark brown sugar

*2 tsps salt

*2 tsps Hungarian sweet paprika

*½ tsp mustard powder

300ml water

2 beef stock pots

1 tbsp cornflour mixed with 1 tbsp water

small tub of sour cream - optional

Use a large frying pan and seal the steak in the rapeseed oil – in small batches – if you overfill the pan you will finish up with grey steak and it will “stew” - not nice! Set the batches aside in the slow cooker. Soften the onion for 2 minutes and then add to the steak.

In a medium sized bowl mix together the ingredients marked *.

Using the same frying pan – and therefore any residual juices, add the water and the stock pots, bring to the boil and stir until the pots have melted. Add the mixed ingredients * and pour over the beef.

Cover and cook on low for 8 hours or until meat is tender.

At the end of the cooking time, using a slotted spoon, remove the steak from the gravy. Mix the cornflour with water and stir into goulash and cook on high to thicken.

Add the steak back into the thickened gravy and you're good to go.

Feeling hungry?

The moral of the rummage …

... is whatever you may cook if you have any leftovers – protein or otherwise, no matter how small an amount – bag it and freeze it. Note to self – don't forget to label and add a date too.

I always used to think that by Wednesday evening it was downhill all the way to the weekend - however the tiredness was kicking in and I felt like a limp lettuce leaf - supper was the last thing I wanted to think about.

All the more satisfying to produce a mid week meal using ingredients taken straight from your freezer. Time spent, five minutes rummaging through it and another five assembling the pie – ok – ten if you insist.

I appreciate you've got to allow for defrosting – if you're not a morning person, or probably more to the point are too busy splitting atoms why not “rummage” the night before – post-it notes for reminders are a wonderful thing.

If you need to be persuaded :

It's not just about being thrifty, to use a very old fashioned word – economical if you want an up to date version! It's about making the absolute best out of your leftovers that already taste great – believe me they taste even better when they've taken minutes to assemble. You won't be sorry.

Mid week glass of wine anyone?

Way back …

… when I visited my Nana and stayed for tea it was always “salad” or the 60s version of it but what I always remember is a bowl of sliced raw onion and cucumber steeped in malt vinegar.

It doesn't sound appetising I grant you, just the thought of the raw onion together with the pungency of the vinegar is enough to blow your socks off.

Which brings me to my second short cut using your spiced sweetened vinegar. Slice an onion thinly and submerge it in the spiced vinegar. Leave it for a few hours or overnight – somewhere cool but not in your fridge – you'll taint everything – vinegar flavoured chocolate mousse is not a good “culinary” look!

This is what it looks like :

For those sandwich connoisseurs out there I have two suggestions – mature cheddar cheese with the onion or, if you've roast beef left over, try a sprinkle of salt and then the onion – ta dah – on either count.

If the onion is a hit you might like to try cutting into chunks then submerge and leave it to absorb all the spiced sweetened vinegar overnight - or even a day or two and then add it to a casserole for added zing. It should be covered and kept in a cool, dark place.

It may not be a “pickled” onion for the purists but it beats the **** out of spending a fortune on a less than acceptable alternative.

Works for me!

Hold those thoughts …

… the first of the short cuts.

I am happy to report that these days you don't have to go through the palaver of adding pickling spice to infuse in vinegar – you can buy ready spiced pickling vinegar and it's a great product.

Try making up a batch of the sweetened vinegar :

225g/8oz demerara sugar

600ml/1 pint malt vinegar

15g/½oz pickling spice

or 1 pint of ready spiced pickling vinegar

Dissolve the sugar in the vinegar over a low heat, bring slowly to the boil and boil for a few seconds.

Leave to cool and then bottle in jars that have been sterilised - I use the dishwasher.

Check out these photos :

Nice colour don't you think?

Way back when … and the second short cut coming next.

A serious word about … pickled onions

Is there anyone out there who loves pickled onions but can't be bothered to go to the trouble of preserving their own or are disappointed with shop bought – despite paying lots of dosh?

I suppose it's considered old fashioned to create your own “preserves” these days although it has to be said it's a fairly long winded, nay messy process, so no big surprise.

If the mood should take, here's the recipe I use, given to me by my Mum. I've no idea where it came from – what I can tell you is that they are the best I've ever had.

Sweet and Sour Onions

1kg/2lb pickling onions

225g/8oz salt

2.25 litres/4 pints water

225g/8oz demerara sugar

600ml/1 pint malt vinegar

15g/½oz pickling spice

Place the onions in a large saucepan with the salt and water and stir.

Put a plate on top to keep the onions under the brine.

Leave for 12 hours.

Peel the onions carefully and return to the brine for a further 24-36 hours.

Meanwhile, make up the spiced vinegar – dissolve the sugar in the vinegar over a low heat, stir in the spice, bring slowly to the boil and boil for a few seconds.

Leave with the spices to cool.

Drain the onions well and pack into jars suitable for vinegar and pickles.

Strain the vinegar and pour over the onions. Cover and seal. Leave for 3-4 months before eating.

You may think it's too late this year but remember that pickles are not just for Christmas!

Now for the good news – there are one or two short cuts which you may find useful, whilst you're waiting impatiently for those you've bottled to mature.

Hold those thoughts ...

A mid week rummage …

… in your freezer.

It's Wednesday and I've no idea what's for supper – not a clue. That's the trouble with this endlessly tedious “hamster wheel” of producing food. I'm off for a rummage in my freezer, in the faint hope that I'll find inspiration and, hopefully, a solution that will not involve too much work.

Five minutes later and I've the answer to all my problems and I give myself a pat on the back for all the occasions I've bagged and frozen leftover bits and pieces along the way – hurray!

I've pulled out a small bag – 145g approximately – of slow cooked gammon, which I'd frozen in chunks and ditto of slow cooked chicken, together with a box of sauce supreme. They are all out defrosting ready for assembly later. Now is the time I use my supply of baked jacket potatoes that are in my fridge.

No cooking required, unless you count sliding the “pie” into a pre-heated oven – that would be nit picking in my book!

Ingredients

Serves 2 generous portions

145/150g cooked gammon

145/150g cooked chicken

200g sauce supreme

1 large baked jacket potato, sliced thinly

skin on or off, whichever is preferred

50/75g grated cheese – mature cheddar or gruyere

to sprinkle over sliced potato topping

salt and black pepper

Mix your chicken and gammon in a medium size bowl. Add a drop of boiled water to the sauce and whisk to loosen, then fold into the gammon and chicken. Tip your filling into a small casserole or a foil tray measuring 20x11x5cms approximately. Add the sliced potatoes, salt and pepper and top with the grated cheese.

Bake in a preheated oven 180fan/200c/Gas 6 for 25 minutes or until golden.

Equal or exact amounts of, in this case the chicken and gammon, aren't important. Check out your fridge – you may find a leek lurking – or is it a lurking leek. Slice finely and soften in a small saucepan with a glug of rapeseed oil.

The moral of the rummage … 

Speaking of apple sauce …

… reminds me of the recipe that I'd used previously when wanting a foolproof sauce.

There's a book by Elizabeth David – An Omelette and a Glass of Wine (if you don't have it in your collection you might want to consider a purchase). This book is a collection of various articles, one of which is called “Big Bad Bramleys” and refers to Eliza Acton and her recipe for apple purée – here comes another book recommendation - Eliza Acton – Modern Cookery for private families – to give perspective Ms. Acton's book was first published in 1845!

Here's that recipe, with modern oven temperatures of course.

Eliza Acton's apple sauce

Pre-heat oven to 160fan/180c/Gas 4.

Grease a glass dish with butter.

This sauce is so easy – the only emphasis is on the preparation of the apples. All the peel and core must be removed. There are no amounts here, you can cook as much sauce, or purée if you prefer, as you desire – it freezes well.

Peel, core and slice your apple – if you can slice them a similar size, so much the better, they will cook more evenly.

Place your apples in your dish and cover with a lid or foil – NO WATER, SUGAR OR ANYTHING ELSE.

Bake for 20/30 minutes. Check after 20. The apples should be soft. Here's the satisfying bit – whisk the apples until they begin to break up, sprinkle with caster sugar plus a generous knob of unsalted butter, whisk again – enjoy.

This would appear to be almost identical to the previous recipe – the only difference being the inclusion of 2 tbsp of water and made on the hob instead of in the oven. Having made both versions the hob method is quicker - the quality of the sauce is great using either.

Another post script – if you subscribe to the “chicken soup” cure for all ills, then this is the sweet alternative!

The roast photos!

Here's the stuffing :

Here's the “roast” plate :

Whatever else you serve is entirely up to you – I opted for sprouts and cauliflower cheese – you can never have enough veggies.

I was tempted to serve “parrots” too – a firm favourite in our house - that's a combination of parsnips and carrots mashed, with a generous knob of butter and loads of black pepper – but since I'd already decided on the roast parsnips drizzled with maple syrup I thought I may have gone over the top – just a smidge!

Bits to go with … continued

The stuffing – my favourite!

Do whatever suits your time – make your own crumb mixture or use a packet and “zhuzh”. I like to zhuzh stuff and make it my own.

As a basic guide :

190g crumbs – your own or a packet of sage & onion

add 400ml boiling water together with a large knob of butter

salt and black pepper

allow the mixture to stand, then fold in 2 tbsp of that apple

sauce you've just made

1 medium onion, finely chopped and

softened with a drop of rapeseed oil and a small

knob of butter

1 small leek, finely chopped softened as the onion

Use a dessert spoon of mixture to give a consistent measure to form the balls which will give you 9 with everything plus 4 without onion.

Pre-heat oven 180fan/200c/Gas 6 and bake for 30 minutes

The stuffing can be made ahead.

Here's the dilemma, shape into balls or make like a “meatloaf” which can then be sliced.

Personally I like balls – another advantage is that if you have guests who don't like onion it's easier to make up however many are required with the basic mixture and the apple and/or the leek and then add the softened onion to the remainder and everyone's happy.

If you'd prefer the “meatloaf” route you could use a cake liner in a loaf tin so that you finish up with the “meatloaf” shaped stuffing. Use a 1lb loaf tin with the appropriate liner and pack the mixture evenly. Bake as above.

You'll notice that the cooking time is 30 minutes – again – which fits in perfectly with your “pull it all together” plan to serve your roast.

Ps. I always make more than I need. There is nothing quite like a sandwich filled with pork (for the meat eaters) and stuffing with coleslaw – not forgetting the mayo. A good source of protein for the veggies is the deli style Quorn wafer thin slices if you like that sort of thing - it ticks the box for sandwiches. An idea that you might want to bear in mind when planning your “C” shopping list – can't bring myself to mention the word, it's too early!

The bits to go with …

Despite the fact that I don't eat meat I've always loved a roast – why - I love all the bits and pieces that go with the meat.

In this particular case apple sauce – there are some food “marriages” you just don't mess with and roast pork and apple sauce is one of them. There is nothing finer than an apple sauce packed with flavour – try this recipe – you won't be disappointed.

Apple Sauce

400g Bramley apples

Juice of half a lemon

2 tbsp water

1½ tbsp caster sugar

a knob of butter and a sprinkle of salt

Peel and dice the apples. Place in a small pan with the lemon juice, 2 tbsp water and the caster sugar. Heat gently until the apples are really soft, then help them along by squashing them with the back of a spoon. When you are satisfied with the consistency add the butter, stir until melted and then add salt to taste.

I know that periodically I mention delicious. Magazine, (sorry – no pun intended) this is another example of what this publication does well – easy, practical recipes.

Those who follow the blog (and thank you) will know that I'm not a food snob and don't believe in “arm twisting” to make your own. There are many great products out there but some come at a hefty price. You don't have to put yourself under pressure – try making stuff when you have the time and then freeze – in this case, the apple sauce. If I thought there wasn't much difference I would say so. If you make this sauce I suspect, and hope, that you'll never buy a jar again.

I made the apple sauce the day before the “roast” - one job less and if anything it tastes even better.

Definitely worth a shot!

A rapid roast – the parsnips and potatoes

All the “Ps”!

In the morning pre-heat your oven 180fan/200c/Gas6.

Peel the parsnips and the potatoes and parboil, they should be of a similar size so they'll cook evenly. Note to self – cook extra! There are no specific numbers – you know how many you'll need to serve as part of the roast, plus the extras. Parboil the parsnips first for 2/3 minutes. Lift them out of the water and place them in a foil tray (or roasting tin) pre-heated with a glug of rapeseed oil. Season with salt and black pepper. Place them in the oven for 15 minutes – set your timer. Turn the parsnips and repeat.

Add the potatoes to the same water and repeat. Drain the potatoes and add 1 tbsp of semolina and shake well. Season with salt and black pepper, then place in a foil tray or roasting tin with a glug of rapeseed oil – pre-heated and place in the oven for 15 minutes. Turn the potatoes and repeat.

Remove both the parsnips and potatoes after 30 minutes, cover and set aside to cool.

The story so far … you've got rid of all the labour intensive prep, not to mention all the muck and rubbish that goes with it and your kitchen is now a stress free zone.

You've halved the time you need to return to the kitchen later in the day.

To prove my point :

30 minutes to rest the pork

30 minutes to cook your crackling (optional)

meat juices thickened in the slow cooker and can

then be left to its own devices until serving

Whilst the pork is resting, return your parsnips (try

adding a drizzle of maple syrup) and your potatoes to the

oven for a final 30 minutes roasting

In other words, prep the boring stuff in the morning, then you can get on with your day and you only need 30 minutes to pull it all together before your guests arrive.

Whatever else you decide to serve with your roast is personal – a couple of compulsory bits – in my opinion – coming next.

Time for an aperitif!

A rapid roast!

Sunday lunch is a moveable feast – not just served at lunchtime – recently ours was 6.30pm. If you're not careful you seem to finish up in the kitchen faffing and messing around all day.

Your prep is the same whenever you are serving so, here's my basic menu and my take on the quickest and easiest way to produce it :

“roast” pork

crackling

“gravy” from the pork

apple sauce

sage and onion stuffing with apple

roast parsnips with maple syrup

roast potatoes

Instead of “roasting” a joint use your slow cooker and cook a piece of boneless shoulder – pulled pork if you like but not shredded finely. It takes 8 hours and the beauty of it is that once it's in the slow cooker it needs no attention until you remove it 8 hours later. Once removed wrap the shoulder in foil and allow it to rest for 30 minutes. You are left with delicious juices and all that's required is to add slaked cornflour to the meat juices and whisk.

If you are a lover of crackling then ask your butcher to remove the skin from the shoulder, you can cook it in a preheated hot oven later in the day.

Slow cooked shoulder of pork

Serves 4-6

1.5kg boneless shoulder of pork

(skin and rind removed for crackling – optional)

2 tsp sea salt flakes

2 tbsp dark brown sugar

1 tbsp sweet smoked paprika

1 tbsp rapeseed oil

100ml good quality apple juice

1 tbsp cornflour, mixed with 1 tbsp water

As mentioned above, ask your butcher to remove the skin and rind, and leave flat (in other words discard any string), dry with kitchen roll. Mix the salt, sugar and paprika and rub half of it over the pork.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan and brown on all sides. Place the pork in your slow cooker, pour over the apple juice and cover with lid. Cook on low for 8/9 hours.

Remove the pork, wrap in foil and leave to rest for 30 minutes.

Whilst the pork is relaxing add the cornflour (mixed with the water) to the sauce in the slow cooker. You can also add the remainder of the seasoning if you want extra zing in your “gravy”. Each time you pass the slow cooker give it a stir.

Pull your pork with two forks into large pieces – do not shred.

Ps. If you wanted another entry for your culinary dictionary, “slaked” means the mixing of a thickening agent – in this case cornflour – with water. Hey - you never know when this may come in handy!

Back in the day ...

… and the ultimate opportunity presented itself for a “taste test”.

Do you remember when it was the custom to take cakes into the office on your birthday?

Coincidentally it happened to be H's birthday so I sent him off with a tin of the Fruity Fudge Snap.

The absolute best is a comment like “I like these too much” you know the sort of thing, when you can't pass the tin without collecting a biscuit en route. Weak willed I know but who cares!

Just before I go, have a look at this photo :

I appreciate it looks underwhelming – and you'd be right – however, there's nothing more frustrating than measuring syrup accurately and then leaving half of it behind in the jug.

Here's the answer – a drop of vegetable (or sunflower) oil in the jug and then wipe out with kitchen roll, leaving a film of oil. When the time comes to add the syrup it pours straight from the jug leaving virtually nothing behind – hence the boring photo.

I do realise I need to get out more.

Photo guide – Between the Sheets

Here they are :

Give it a try, you know you're tempted!