Sunday, 11 February 2018

7 down – 2 to go – Raspberry Marquise …

the photo story so far :



You can see what I mean – if you didn't see the cling film at the top of the tin you wouldn't know it was lined.



When the colour looks like this you know it's going to taste good.



Now it has the “mousse” look.




Ready for the freezer.

Whilst we're waiting …


Raspberry Marquise – Hints and Tips

I used unsalted butter and ordinary caster sugar.

A tip or two when lining a loaf tin with cling film and trying to avoid creases.

Don't tear off a huge piece of cling film – you know what'll happen, you wrap yourself in the stuff and get very cross!

You'll need two single pieces of kitchen roll. The first scrunch up and pour a tiny drop of vegetable oil into the tin and use the kitchen roll to grease it thoroughly – every nook and cranny.

Place your cling film into the tin and gently ease it as flat as you can. Scrunch up the other piece of kitchen roll and smooth out the bottom of the tin – it really does work.

Here's the best tip. When you separate your eggs have two boxes ready. Place two of the egg whites in one and the remaining four in another. The only trouble with using six egg yolks is what to do with the remaining whites.

All will become clear in the fullness of time – all you need to remember for now is to freeze the egg whites.

You can chill the marquise overnight or up to 2 days. Serve straight away or freeze for up to one month.

In the ordinary course of a recipe I'd complete it and there'd be photos of it served and decorated. I'm putting the marquise straight into the freezer, cut in half and double wrapped in cling film and then foil. I've got supper with friends later this week so I'm going to use one of the halves then. It makes perfect sense that I've got two opportunities to serve the dessert and all I have to do is keep my eye on the date, so that I use the remaining half within a month.

You'll have to wait a while for the end result!

7 down – 2 to go: Raspberry Marquise

We are nearly at the end of this journey. As has been my habit during our experiment what follows is the recipe taken from “The Little Book of Chocolat” by Joanne Harris and Fran Warde.

Raspberry Marquise

This is the ultimate chocoholic's dessert. Grown-up, rich and seductive, it's best served with a fresh raspberry coulis to cut the richness of the chocolate. Perfect for dinner parties, a little goes a long way – and because it's flourless, it's the ideal chocolate fix for cacao addicts everywhere.

Takes 20 minutes, plus 2 hours (minimum)
to set
Serves 10-12

175g butter
175g unrefined caster sugar
400g dark chocolate, broken into
small, even-sized pieces
40g cocoa powder

500ml double cream
6 egg yolks, beaten
cocoa powder, for dusting
250g raspberries


Carefully line a 11.5 x 25.5 cm tin with cling film (try to avoid creases).

Place the butter, sugar, chocolate and cocoa in a bain-marie, melt and stir until smooth and blended. Whisk the cream in a bowl until it just starts to hold, add the egg yolks, whisk, then add the chocolate mixture and blend until smooth. Pour into the lined tin, bang twice on the work surface to remove any air pockets from the corners and place in the fridge for 2 hours or overnight to set.

Turn the loaf out on to a flat board or place, peel away the cling film and lightly dust with sifted cocoa. Blend half the raspberries and sieve to remove the seeds. (Fran suggests doing this, but I never bother. I guess it depends on whether you care about raspberry seeds). Just before serving, arrange the remaining raspberries on top of the loaf, drizzle with the coulis and serve. Have a jug of hot water to dip the knife into before each slice, this will help to achieve a neat cut.

This is looking promising!

Friday, 2 February 2018

Ascoughs – the birthday treat

I wouldn't normally go out to eat to celebrate a birthday – in fact the last “birthday treat” was an unmitigated disaster. Thank you Ascoughs for restoring my faith – but don't take my word for it.

I was impressed to receive a very polite message from Ascoughs on the day, asking me to confirm my booking – attention to detail.

Some useful information – the current lunch and dinner menus are available from 9th January to 3rd February so another change of menu is due. You can take a sneaky peak at the menus ahead of the game on line and ponder your ultimate choice – another smart move. If you tend to be a tad indecisive and then regret it later this is the perfect solution.

What did catch my eye was “Over Night Braised Hoggett, Champ Potato Cake, Confit Shallot, Red Currant Jellies and Pan Jus”.
For those who aren't sure what hoggett is, let me explain. Lamb is considered to be up to a year old. Hoggett comes next between 1 and 2 years old, mutton follows – over two years old. If you are a fan of lamb you might be interested to know that hoggett is considered to be the most flavoursome of the options.

Lets cut to the chase and borrow a well known phrase - “... here are some of the choices and results from the Stanwick Jury”.

Here's the hoggett :



... “excellent – very generous portion, melt in the mouth”

Next up for the vegetarians :

Winter Vegetable En Croute, Spinach, Spring Onion Mash, Baked Onion, Sauce Roti


… “delicious - it's rare for me to finish a plate of food but I gave it my best shot!”

Finally, the dessert choice :

Frangipane Slice, Cherry Gel, Glazed Baby Pears, Salted Caramel Almonds, Cherry Sorbet



… “all my favourite flavours on one plate – it did not disappoint”

There are two strokes of genius here – the cost is beyond reasonable and the menus are changed each month so you don't get bored. Out for lunch or dinner once a month at these prices – what's not to like.

Can't wait for my next treat!


Ascoughs – the return.

In May 2017 I mentioned this restaurant in Market Harborough, Leicestershire. (Travels with my friend 1-4).

If you are really impressed with a restaurant you are in two minds whether to re-visit for fear of disappointment. Never let it be said that I don't have your best interests at heart! I'm ringing the changes this time and sampling the dinner menu. Dinner costs 2 courses £19.50 and 3 courses £24.50 although some dishes attract an extra charge.

My first visit took place in December, just before the holidays – a good time to road test a restaurant – so often the quality plummets and the price rockets. I was more than impressed that the prices were exactly as stated.

I appreciate that December has come and gone but, to illustrate the quality of the food you can expect, here's a snippet from the starter and dessert menus.

To whet your appetite :


This is Cauliflower (charred, pickled, purée, crisp, beignet) with Golden Raisins and Mint Salsa


This is Butterscotch Mousse, Hazelnut Brittle, Chocolate Sphere, Truffles, Hazelnut & Caramel Sauce

Value for money – without question.

Would I go back? In a heartbeat – I've already booked!

Ascoughs Bistro – telephone 01858 466966



Fly by the seat of your pants!

You'll notice that I've not been specific about size or weight of potatoes. As a guide (to serve 4 generous portions) I'd use 3 medium/large baked jackets or 800g of potatoes to boil for mash. In my house I always cook more than I need. I find cooked potatoes, in whatever, form extremely useful. I should also mention that cooked new potatoes fall into the same category.

Learn to “fly by the seat of your pants” and think ahead. If your oven is on fill it (with at least six medium to large baking potatoes) - if you're prepping veggies – potatoes et al - cook more than you need. Grate mature cheddar cheese and fill a bag or box and fridge.

To illustrate how the potatoes and the cheese can help you - using your “hob to oven” frying pan, sauté cubed potato with onion and any other leftover veggies or those lone fresh ones lurking in the fridge that you never seem to use before they become wizened and inedible.

Add beaten eggs – one per person – and a handful or two of grated mature cheddar cheese from your boxed stash, whisked together or sprinkle the cheese on the top. Cook the bottom on the hob for 3-4 minutes on a medium heat, then finish under the grill for 10 minutes or so – don't walk away! You could, if you prefer, cook the veggies in the frying pan and then add the remaining ingredients and then bake in a pre-heated oven on 170fan/190c/Gas 5 for 35/40 minutes.

It's vegetarian as it stands – add whatever you want to enhance – sprinkle with bacon bits! A perfect speedy mid week supper and an even better “portable” lunch, cold, the following day.

Either way a fab frittata - I rest my case.

To mash or not to mash

Toppings on pies are a serious business - shall it be mash - if not then what?

If you choose a mashed potato topping and you want it lump free then put the pototoes through a ricer – don't add milk or butter. Set aside to cool.

You can add grated mature cheddar cheese, a teaspoon of Dijon mustard and black pepper to the riced potato before you complete your pie.

Mashed potato seems to be on “the definite list” - definitely yes you love it or definitely no you hate it! If you're in the no camp then try sliced baked potatoes.

Whether mashed or baked the beauty of this dish is it can be made and assembled ahead and then baked in a pre-heated oven 180fan/200c/Gas 6 for 30 mins.

Here it is, in the frying pan and baked in the oven.


Since this is a posher version of the norm I'm treating the GOM and topping with grated Gruyere cheese, a knob or two of butter and black pepper.


A third of the pie left – oh goodie enough to freeze for another day.

This is my favourite method of winter cooking especially when you want a meal as quickly as possible when you arrive home – turn on your oven to pre-heat when you've taken off your coat and by the time you've juggled a few more balls or spun a few more plates your shepherd or cottage – posh or not - is in the oven - ready for the hungry hordes.


Simple stuff but it hits the winter comfort spot!