Entertaining or bust!

There are times when we want to push the boat out, especially after recent events, so I thought I'd repeat a series on “a dinner party” if only to illustrate how being organised and planning can take away the stress. You might find it useful if you're thinking of dipping your toe in the water at Easter – it matters not what the menu is, the principles are the same – good luck!

The Dinner Party

We don't do much formal entertaining these days and when we do it's casual and more relaxed, the formality has all but disappeared, thank goodness! There are however times when you need to step up a gear or two when special occasions present themselves.

Such was the case recently when our old friend Neil, who lives predominantly in the USA, was visiting with his lovely lady Rox. In itself not an unusual occurrence but this time they were bringing Rox's best friend and her husband – Gracey and Joe. Although Joe had been to London on business many moons ago, it was their first trip to the UK together.

A dinner date was duly entered in their busy schedule – definitely a special occasion and so the food should be too.

You may not be aware but we Brits do not have a great culinary reputation in the USA so all the more reason to be at the top of my game!

First and foremost - find out what the dietary requirements are – it's never a good idea to fly blind in these situations! Mission accomplished - I have two veggies – although to confuse the issue one does eat shellfish – the rest of the party eat anything - always good.

Now for the tricky bit - I want to spend as much time as possible with my guests and not be tied to the kitchen only to emerge hot and bothered – food you serve when you're flustered shows on the plate.

Here's the menu :

Scallops and king prawns in black bean sauce

Pork with Calvados cream sauce

Chestnut and apple roast for the vegetarians

Gateau a l'Orange with orange syrup, clotted cream

and vanilla ice cream

This is only the beginning …

The appetiser

I've served this dish on two previous occasions and it went well on both. Third time lucky me thinks - time for another appearance. If you're interested in dishes that can be prepped and served in minutes then I think you'll like this.

Scallops and king prawns in black bean sauce

Serves 2 as a starter

7 scallops per person (from frozen –

frozen scallops are usually smaller than fresh)

7 cooked king prawns (from frozen)

drop of rapeseed oil

salt and black pepper

Waitrose Cooks' Ingredients

black bean sauce

This is a dish that you pull from your freezer – the scallops and the king prawns and from your pantry/store cupboard - the black bean sauce.

As a guide I sourced the king prawns (200g) and the black bean sauce (220g) from Waitrose - £4.80 and £2.49 respectively. The scallops came from Marks and Spencer (300g) £9.00. Prices will vary.

You need to remember to take the scallops and king prawns out of the freezer the night before and fridge them. Make sure you drain any liquid and pat dry with kitchen roll before cooking.

I always use the clock face method when cooking scallops – heating the rapeseed oil until hot and beginning at 12 o'clock and forming an outer circle in your pan, sealing and seasoning with salt and black pepper. When you return to where you began turn each scallop again to seal on the other side. Add the king prawns, season and then toss together for 2 minutes to warm the prawns through. Add 100ml of the black bean sauce tossing to cover thoroughly. Serve immediately.

The Dinner Party - the table and hints and tips

To save myself as much time as possible I always set the table ahead of the party – preferably in the morning. It is also serves as a useful prompt – you can see what you've forgotten! Are your wine glasses pristine and polished? Plan ahead … choose your dinnerware, including serving dishes and spoons.

Unless you have a kitchen big enough you're not likely to have a warming drawer. I have a solution. You may not have the warming drawer but you might have two ovens – a small one without a fan which usually houses the grill too. Empty the small oven – it's perfect for your appetiser bowls, dinner plates, serving dishes and jugs for sauces. There's no need to turn the oven on, the residual heat from the lower oven rises and gently warms. There's nothing worse than hot food served on a cold plate or vegetables from cold dishes.

I decided to have some fun and chose colourful bowls for the appetiser – have a look at these :

They measure 12cms x 6cms deep – 4½ x 2½” in old money.

If you like the look of these, here's what you need to know :

I've deliberately chosen a menu that allows me to cook ahead and freeze and to pre and part cook ahead too, leaving me with a 30 minute finish time. The only dish I'll need to cook from scratch on the night is the appetiser.

Hmm … what to serve with.

The Dinner Party – the vegetable fest!

My next decision is what vegetables I'm going to serve – here's the list :

Roast potatoes

Roast parsnips

Lemon glazed roasted carrots

Cauliflower cheese

Mange tout – because they are a favourite!

I've got crunch, sweetness, bright vibrant colours and a creamy cheesy cauliflower dish.

The added bonus – only the mange tout requires steaming on the night.

The potatoes, parsnips and carrots are peeled and chopped to size and part roasted on the morning of the party. I par boil my potatoes, drain, add a tablespoon of semolina then shake well so that they are coated. The Chestnut and Apple roast too. Bake in a pre-heated oven 180fan/200c/Gas 6 for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven, cover and set aside to cool.

For the cauliflower cheese I steam a whole head of cauliflower, minus its leaves and then set it aside on a tray lined with layers of kitchen roll. This allows all the moisture to drain away from the cauliflower, ready to finish later on.

I make the mornay sauce :

Serves 4-6

40g unsalted butter

40g plain flour

600ml of milk – I use semi skimmed

150g mature Cheddar cheese

(or a combination of Cheddar and gruyere)

salt and black pepper

½ tsp Dijon mustard - optional

Melt the butter in a pan and stir in the flour. Cook gently for a minute, stirring – make sure you don't brown the mixture. Gradually add the milk whisking constantly and eventually bring to the boil, whisking until it's smooth and thick. Lower the heat and simmer for 2 minutes, then add the cheese, mustard and season. I'd taste before you add salt – there's salt in the cheese – adjust accordingly. Cover and set aside until required.

I grate Parmesan cheese in readiness to garnish the cauliflower dish and plan to be generous and sprinkle liberally! If you're able to use the same oven proof oval dish as for the Chestnut and Apple roast (see the recipe for the measurements and a photo in the forthcoming step by step guide) – both can then be served straight from the oven to the table.

Why so many I hear you ask? Easy … variety is the spice of life and guests will try something new when offered a choice. Most of my American friends didn't know what a parsnip was never mind about sampling this most delicious under-rated vegetable … we'll see!

This is starting to take shape …

The Chestnut and Apple roast

Over the years I've tried lots of vegetarian roasts. The archetypal “nut roast” makes my blood run cold - for me it conjures up a dried tasteless mixture that you could use to lay a crazy paving! I've treated myself to a luxury version where the name has been changed to make it sound appealing when it's really appalling. Hence my own version.

Tried and tested, here it is :

Chestnut and Apple roast

170g/6oz of dried breadcrumbs

2 tsps dried sage

100ml/3fluid oz boiling water

or

1 packet of sage and onion stuffing mix – 170g/6oz

1 packet – 180g/7oz of vac packed chestnuts, blitzed to a

crumb – not dust!

300g of chunky apple sauce – preferably Bramley apple

or

Portion of apple sauce, a la Eliza Acton – 225-350g/8-12 oz

1 medium onion, finely chopped

Drop of rapeseed oil and knob of butter.

2 additional knobs of butter

I used an oval cast iron oven proof dish measuring 25x17x5 cms – 10”x7”x2” in old money.

For your dried breadcrumbs, remove the crusts and tear up into chunks – weigh to achieve 170g/6oz. Pre-heat oven 150fan/170c/Gas 3. Blitz the bread in a food processor until you get an even crumb. Spread the crumbs onto a baking tray and bake for 6 minutes until they are golden. You can make a finer crumb by blitzing again when cooled. Add dried sage to taste – I'd suggest 2 tsps.

You don't have to make your own breadcrumbs, you can buy them dried.

Alternatively if you're short of time, use a sage and onion stuffing mix.

There's a step by step photo guide and method coming next along with the Eliza Acton recipe for the apple sauce.

The roast – step by step photo guide and method

the breadcrumbs and the blitzed chestnuts

season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper

with the apple, onion and two knobs of butter

fold the apple, onion and butter through the

breadcrumbs and chestnuts

here's the oval cast iron ovenproof dish

the roast in the dish – if you want to cook ahead

part bake, covered in foil for 20 minutes, 180fan/200c/Gas 6

cool and fridge

take the roast out of the fridge two hours before

finishing to allow it to reach room temperature then

bake, uncovered, for a further 20 minutes (10 minutes

in to the 30 minute finishing time)

cooked and served in an individual cast iron pot

The best apple sauce up next!

I found this recipe by accident and it is truly the most delicious apple sauce. Even if you decide you haven't the time on this occasion stick it in your pending tray and try it when you do have time – you won't be sorry.

Eliza Acton's Apple Sauce – with Bramley apples

Pre-heat oven to 160fan/180c/Gas 4.

Grease a glass dish with butter.

This sauce is so easy – the only emphasis is on the preparation of the apples. All the peel and core must be removed. There are no amounts here, you can cook as much sauce as you desire – it freezes well!! So, peel, core and slice your apples – if you can slice them a similar size they will cook more evenly.

Place your apples in your dish and cover with a lid or foil – NO WATER, SUGAR OR ANYTHING ELSE!!

Bake for 20-30 minutes. Check after 20. Apples should be soft. Here's the satisfying bit – whisk the apples until they begin to break up, sprinkle with caster sugar plus a generous knob of unsalted butter, whisk again – enjoy.

You can use this sauce for loads of recipes – I use it as an addition to my Chestnut Roast at Christmas.

If you're not feeling so well I can recommend the sauce as the sweet alternative to chicken soup.

Enjoy!

P.s. The books … if, like me, you're interested in food history you might like to add the following to your list. Elizabeth David's “An Omelette and a Glass of Wine” which is a compilation of articles and is where I found “Big Bad Bramleys” which in turn lead me to “Eliza Acton Modern Cookery”.

The home straight ...