Saturday, 21 November 2020

Zhuzh your leftovers … and the real deal

Whether you opt to make the cheats' version or the real Gratin Dauphinois it would take your leftover roast of beef, pork or chicken (or a Quorn alternative for the veggies) to a whole new level. It doesn't have to be leftover roast, you could choose a selection of charcuterie i.e. a combination of cooked and cured meats – ham hock or gammon would be perfect too. I'd definitely serve with a relish - beetroot would be an excellent choice – the sharpness of the beetroot against the richness of either version - cheats or real deal.

It has to be the easiest and tastiest Monday evening supper ever.

It was the custom in France back in the day to serve an authentic dauphinois as a first course on its own and then followed by meats as outlined above and a salad.

I remember years ago watching James Martin make a huge dishful of dauphinois – deliberately creating leftovers - as a guide the dish measured 23x23x5cms/9x9x2”. The next day he re-heated what was left, still in its original dish, preheating the oven 140fan/160c/Gas 4 for 15 minutes, to crisp the edges - he then promptly devoured the remains straight from the dish. There's only one drawback – the dish will have to be soaked before washing properly – is it worth it – without question!

There are heaps of recipes out there for dauphinois – the one I use belongs to Elizabeth David and in her immortal words, defending extravagance …

if it seems to the thrifty minded outrageously

extravagant to use half a pint of cream to one pound

of potatoes, I can only say that to me it seems a more

satisfactory way of enjoying cream than pouring it over

tinned peaches or chocolate mousse”


Taken from “French Provincial Cooking” published

in 1960 – that's 60 years ago – gulp!

Absolutely spot on.

Now for the real deal a la Elizabeth David …

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