Saturday, 20 June 2020

Foolproof Yorkshire Pudding – by a Yorkshireman!

In the Tarragon Chicken – hints and tips I mentioned creating a “roast” and Yorkshire Pudding.

Everyone has their favourite “go to” Yorkshire pudding recipe but if by chance you haven't and need one – here it is – it does exactly what it says “in the tin”!

This recipe belongs to Brian Turner a well known Chef and Yorkshireman to boot, so well qualified. The recipe's success is because it works not by weight but by volume. Use any size cup but measure each ingredient with the same cup. Not sure what the vinegar does but his Granny used it and it seems to work so why change it!

1 large cup plain flour
pinch of salt
1 large cup of eggs
1 large cup - 2/3rds milk and 1/3rd water
1 tbsp malt vinegar

beef dripping for pudding tin – use vegetable
or rapeseed oil if preferred

Pre-heat oven 180fan/200c/Gas 6.

Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl.

Add the eggs and beat well with half the liquid until all the lumps have disappeared.

Add the rest of the liquid and the vinegar and allow to stand.

In a pudding tin put a dessert spoon of dripping in each and place in the oven until it is very hot.

Ladle the batter into the individual sections of the tin and place back in the oven.

Bake for 25 minutes without opening the oven if possible. Serve immediately.

It really is foolproof.

Up next - more “dive in” recipe choices for your family and friends ...



Summer Fruit Tarts is what!

This recipe is so old I can't remember when – probably as far back as 1986 ish.

Rich shortcrust pastry
as per the recipe given

Filling

250g mascarpone cheese
165g caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla essence
1 tsp lemon juice

A selection of fresh fruit in season
prepped and sliced for decoration

strawberries, hulled and sliced finely, melon balls
kiwi, grapes and banana to name but a few ideas

Glaze

2 tbsp apricot jam, sieved
1 tbsp water

On a lightly floured board, roll out pastry thinly and cut into circles with a fluted 7cm cutter. Line two 12 tartlet trays – or place sweet shortcrust tart cases on a baking tray and prick bases. Bake at 160fan/180c/Gas 4 for 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown. Cool on a wire rack.

Beat together the mascarpone cheese, sugar, vanilla and lemon juice. Place a tablespoon of cheese mixture in each tart.

Arrange the fruits decoratively over the top.

Heat the jam and water in a small saucepan over moderate heat until smooth. Brush over tarts and allow to set before serving.

The recipe for the filling will give you sufficient for 24 tarts – perfect for a summer party dessert. Halve the filling recipe for the 12 tart cases or double the pastry recipe if you're going for 24!

These tarts are small, which is great, the size of a jam tart, so perfectly poppable into the mouth.

Use whatever fruit takes your fancy or mix it up – my fancy was strawberries, it's worth the effort of hulling – the finished article looks like this :

 

If you don't like the idea of making pastry then a shortbread stack would work well. The mascarpone cream is good enough to stand alone – by that I mean it's delicious enough with a bowl of fresh fruit.

I took two pots of the cream, together with fresh strawberries, to my friend who has been on her own since the lockdown, despite our “distance” in her back garden it was worth it. I'm not sure who my friend was pleased to see more – me or the strawberries and cream!

By the way ...

By request … sweet shortcrust pastry

As a rule I don't get requests for pastry from H but, rules are meant to be broken as they say – and in particular a sweet version. Here's the recipe I used for my trial run :

The recipe makes enough to line a shallow
23cm/9 inch flan tin

Serves 8

115g/4oz plain flour
55g/2oz cold unsalted butter, diced
25g (a scant 1oz) icing sugar, sifted
1 egg yolk plus 1 tbsp cold water

Sift the flour into a mixing bowl. Add the butter and rub in until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the sugar.

Lightly beat the egg yolk with 1 tbsp of cold water. Add to the flour mixture and mix with a round-bladed knife. Gather together to make a soft dough.

Wrap in cling film and chill for at least 30 minutes before rolling out.

Add 1 tsp pure vanilla extract to the beaten egg yolk and reduce the amount of water slightly – optional.

Bake at 160fan/180c/Gas 4 for 15 minutes or until they are golden in colour – leave to cool.

If you prefer individual tart cases then you'll get 12 based on using a cutter 7cms/2¾” in diameter from the recipe given. Prick the cases with a fork before baking.

After I'd rolled out the pastry I used my trusted tamper to ease the cases into the tin for an even shape.

What to do with the pastry now I've made it?


The veggie option – I know this works too

The classic vegetarian option was always a bowl of pasta with a nondescript tomato sauce poured over the top – lots of care and attention – NOT!

I like to make the best of what's available and in season and I think I did.

This recipe proved to be a hit and has been repeated more than once since – so much so I committed it to paper - even the most stalwart of carnivores enjoyed it. The other plus is that it stands on its own as a vegetarian dish but also lends itself as part of a larger menu.


Stuffed Portobello Mushrooms

4/6 large Portobello Mushrooms

1 medium onion, finely chopped with a drop of rapeseed oil and a knob of butter
85g breadcrumbs (or if you want an alternative
use an 85g packet of sage & onion stuffing mix)
Garlic paste or 2 crushed cloves of garlic
50g pine nuts (chopped walnuts or chestnuts would also work well)
Small double cream - 150ml

75g each of grated
Extra Mature Cheddar Cheese
Red Leicester
Gruyere

Salt and black pepper
100/150g grated Parmesan

Pre-heat your oven 180fan/200c/gas 6.

Soften the onion and garlic with the oil and butter.

Remove and discard the stalks and set the mushrooms aside on a baking tray. If the mushrooms wobble slice a thin layer from the bottom – that should do the trick.

Place the breadcrumbs or stuffing mix into a mixing bowl, add the softened onion and garlic together with the pine nuts. Gradually add double cream to the mixture, it should be stiff. Add the grated Cheddar, Red Leicester and Gruyere, season well with salt and black pepper.

Dampen your hands. Take a handful of mixture and work into a firm mound and pack into each mushroom.

Sprinkle grated parmesan over each mushroom.

Bake and check after 15 minutes – depends on the size of the mushrooms, they should be nicely browned.

And my final tip - you can use the mixture, with less cream, to achieve a crumble consistency and use as a topping for roasted vegetables or fish.
This dish is a treat, rich with cream and cheeses I know - it was meant to be. It's delicious, always providing you and your guests like mushrooms!

Coming next … by request – sweet pastry


Saturday, 13 June 2020

I know this recipe works …

Over the years we've spent a lot of time in the USA – South Carolina in particular, where our best friend lives.

On one occasion we were expecting a houseful of visitors – the big kids were expecting friends from all over the place – by land and air and their plans involved copious amounts of alcohol!

My mission – should I choose to accept – was to feed them before they left for their evening of fun.

Problem 1

They were all arriving at different times, who knows when, so whatever I cooked had to be easily completed and wouldn't spoil by cooking ahead.

Problem 2

I don't know what they eat! We already had a combination of meat eaters and veggies so stick with the safe bet – chicken and a veggie option.

Problem 3

Whatever I cook has to be pulled together – fast!

Tarragon Chicken fits the bill. A tray of the chicken fillet cooked ahead, as per the recipe, not forgetting adding spare fillets – big kids have big appetites.

My “never fail” standby – a massive tray of roasties – part cooked along with another giant tray of roasted mixed veggies. The roasties will be a novelty for my US friends, they tend to serve mashed potatoes.

When I say massive trays I mean huge – 26”x18” and 21”x15” (66x46cms and 53x38cms). US ovens are twice the size of ours in the UK – thank goodness!

The roasties and the veggies can be finished off in the oven whilst I complete the vat of sauce on the stove, just the cream and seasoning to add.

I've never seen food vanish so quickly and off they went on their merry way. Happy hangover guys.

Phew – it's a good job I set aside enough for the old folks left behind – time for a gin!

I haven't forgotten I mentioned a veggie option – recipe up next.


Tarragon Chicken – hints and tips

What to serve with? Depends in the time of year and whether it's a “sit-down” lunch or a supper or dinner “do”.

As a main it's quite a rich dish so, if you're a lover of rice you could have a fried rice full of colour using all your favourite veggies – sliced mange tout, asparagus, corn, fresh peas, broad beans, whatever is in season.

Jersey Royals are in season at the moment – perfect in my opinion - having said that there are other good varieties of new potatoes available most of the year, Charlottes as an example.

You could create a “roast”. If you love your roasties then substitute for the Jerseys. A large tray of roasted veggies too – onions, fennel, carrots and parsnips and both can be part roasted ahead and then finished later.

How about Yorkshire Pudding – you may think I'm crazy but you'd be surprised how many people love it – with whatever else is served!

The other good news is that you can create exactly the same dish for vegetarians using veggie stock and suitable cream, then submerge Quorn fillets or Quorn pieces. Make the sauce and add the Quorn – it takes 12 minutes from frozen. You can get Vegan and Gluten Free versions too.

I think that's most of the boxes ticked!

Coming up … I know this recipe works

The Tarragon Chicken alternatives

If you prefer to plan ahead, slow cooking and then freezing the chicken breasts works well – all that's required is to defrost the cooked chicken and make the sauce. Don't forget to freeze the stock too!

For the slow cooking

4 large chicken breasts
drop of Rapeseed/Canola oil and a knob of butter
500ml/1 pint of chicken stock

Heat the oil and butter in a large frying pan until hot. Seal the chicken on both sides, set aside in your slow cooker. Add the stock to the residual juices in the pan and bring to the boil – add to your fillets and slow cook for 2/3 hours, depending on the thickness of the fillets.

Defrost thoroughly in the fridge before use if you freeze after cooking.

You can always slow cook more than four fillets but don't forget to freeze in quantities that suit you.

You can “smoke” chicken breasts – poach the breasts gently in chicken stock for 20 minutes – turn the chicken after 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the chicken to continue to poach in the stock with the lid on.

If you're not sure what “poaching” and how to achieve it :

Poaching is a technique involving submerging food in a liquid – in this case stock – milk and wine are also used.

It's considered to be a healthy method of cooking since it doesn't use fat to cook or flavour the food. Poaching uses a low temperature which means it's perfect for delicate food like chicken which has a tendency either to fall apart or become dry. The chicken remains succulent and full of flavour with whatever aromatics you've used in the stock.

Speaking of aromatics, if, like me, you occasionally slow cook a whole chicken infused with star anise and save the strained stock - I'm poaching the chicken breasts in the anise stock from my stash in the freezer. Since the recipe is Tarragon Chicken and tarragon has an aniseed flavour it's the perfect fit.

The sauce can then be cooked to the point where all that's required is to add the cream, fresh tarragon and white pepper.

What's not to love.