Mornay moments – photo guide

These photos show a generous supper.

Place the fish in the bottom of the bowl and add a generous layer of potatoes

Add a generous drizzle or two of mornay sauce, “Jackson Pollock” style

Finally garnish with the griddled asparagus

The verdict … “****** wonderful”!

Hmm, a result and a recipe that will be repeated.

P.s. Feeling adventurous?

Try garnishing the dish with samphire instead of asparagus. Samphire is a sea vegetable and there are two types, marsh and rock. Marsh samphire is very similar to fine asparagus and is the most palatable of the two. Be warned, it is, not surprisingly, very salty so try steaming for a couple of minutes. It is delicious and a perfect partner for fish, which reminds me – you'll find it on the fresh fish counter!

Smoked haddock and mornay sauce

It's traditional, certainly in the UK, to put fish with parsley sauce – can't say I'm enthusiastic. I immediately think of cod in parsley sauce which in turn makes me think of invalid food.

If you'd like an idea for a lunch, or a supper main course here's my latest.

As is usually the case with me, less is more - there are four elements to this dish – two of which can be made ahead.

This recipe is based on a light lunch for two or a generous supper for one.

Fish and Chips – sort of

300g/12oz of new potatoes, cooked and peeled

drizzle of rapeseed (Canola) oil

200g/8oz of smoked haddock – in two pieces

Mornay sauce – half the recipe given previously

110g/4oz of extra fine asparagus tips, snapped and then

trimmed to a similar size

Cook and peel the potatoes ahead. Cool and then cut into quarters, set aside.

Make the sauce ahead, cool and fridge.

Pre-heat oven 170fan/190c/Gas 5

This dish is based on frozen smoked haddock, cooked straight from the freezer. Clearly you can use fresh fish – the recipe is for speed and so long as it's good quality why not – if you have heaps of time to pop to the Fishmonger and buy fresh, even better.

Frozen smoked haddock will take 30 minutes. Place your fish in a foil tray or a small casserole. Add a drop of water and a knob of butter. On a separate baking sheet cut your potatoes into quarters, add a drizzle of rapeseed (Canola) oil, toss to cover and roast at the same time as the fish. Set your timer for 20 minutes.

Re-set your timer for the remaining 10 minutes cooking time. Warm a griddle pan for the asparagus – oil the asparagus, not the pan – all that will happen if you oil the pan is that the oil will sink into the grooves and will burn.

Warm the mornay sauce, gently on a low heat. Warm a large bowl too!

Here it is ...

Moreish mornay

I've always loved the combination of fish and cheese. Some might say contentious – you won't get seafood and cheese served together in an Italian restaurant - some might say old fashioned!

My first encounter with a mornay sauce was in the 70s, working in Mayfair the “birthday treat” was to go to “Wheelers” the ultimate in fish restaurants. It was there that I first tasted cod in mornay sauce. A memorable experience.

Mornay sauce is French – usually enriched with egg yolks. My version is without the egg yolks. I realise this is not for the purists but I want a sauce that I can freeze and uncooked eggs ain't such a good idea. I have not received any complaints.

Here's it is :

Mornay Sauce

Serves 4-6

40g unsalted butter

40g plain flour

600ml of milk – I use semi skimmed

150g mature Cheddar cheese

(or a combination of Cheddar and gruyere)

salt and black pepper

½ tsp Dijon mustard - optional

Melt the butter in a pan and stir in the flour. Cook gently for a minute, stirring – make sure you don't brown the mixture. Gradually add the milk whisking constantly and eventually bring to the boil, whisking until it's smooth and thick. Lower the heat and simmer for 2 minutes, then add the cheese, mustard and season. I'd taste before you add salt – there's salt in the cheese – adjust accordingly.

I've found two theories of origin – the first, it was named for a 17^th century French diplomat, Philippe de Mornay, seigneur du Plessis-marly. The other is that it was created by Chef Joseph Voiron of Paris, naming the sauce after his eldest son, known as Mornay.

I like useless bits of information – you never know what trivia questions are going to pop up when you're quizzing!

Moving on …

A pandowdy post script

I received an email from my friend in the USA who had looked at the pandowdy blog. It raised an interesting question for her, which was “the apple pie recipe requires “black treacle” - I have no idea what that is”.

I can help - “black treacle” is “molasses”.

Here's what the can looks like :

It then occurred to me that the USA uses Imperial measurements and not metric as we do in the UK - if you're not familiar with both it can be a nuisance and would put you off a recipe because you don't have the time or inclination to translate.

As an example, my friend talked about a hamburger recipe she'd come across and so I mentioned that mine was on the same USA link “On location in SC – Friday night is burger night!” The recipe calls for 500g of minced beef, pork or turkey.

Here's a quick translation of the metric measures given for the burger :

1 kilo is equal to 2lbs 2oz,

for a recipe requiring 500g (½ kilo) you'll need 1lb 1oz of minced meat

and the 5x100g burgers equates to 5 quarter pounders

The UK introduced the metric system in 1965 so for those of a certain age – which includes me - we'd already been taught the Imperial system. There are many who still stick with Imperial in the UK. It messes with your head to effectively have two systems.

There are occasions when cooking needs to be exact – you can fly by the seat of your pants generally speaking – a sprinkle of this and a dash of that (note to self when you're flying by said pants try and remember what you've sprinkled and dashed!). However where baking is concerned this is an exact science and you have to be precise … unless of course you're like my Nana who never used a set of scales in her life and made the best pastry in the world!

This might help … strictly speaking an ounce is equal to 28 grams (g) - consequently the practise is to use either 25g or 30g. I use 25g as my rule of thumb – it's entirely up to the individual - both are correct – using 25g to an ounce makes the sums easier for me.

Note to me – give Imperial and Metric measures in recipes!

Ascoughs lunch - the pics

I will resist the urge to bore the pants off – this is just a sample.

Our starter was Falafel, Roasted Peppers, Charred Courgette, Grains, Soya Yoghurt Flatbread and Pomegranate Dressing, it looks like this :

Our main course was Twice Baked Goats Cheese Soufflé, Marinated Artichoke and Cucumber Salad and Toasted Sunflower Seeds, here it is :

I can hear you - “it doesn't look anything special”

It does now!

There are two desserts and here they are in all their glory :

Turkish Delight Cheesecake, Almond & Cherry Florentine,

Dark Chocolate Ice Cream, Rose Gel and Fudge Sauce

• or, if cake is your guilty pleasure :

Sticky Ginger Cake, Rum Raisins, Butterscotch
Sauce and Rum & Ginger Ice Cream.

A word of warning – you might want to wear clothes that have an expanding waistline, particularly if you want to indulge in the Intros before you embark on the following three courses!

A spectacular lunch.

August at Ascoughs

For those who are not familiar, Ascoughs is a bistro located at 24-26 St. Mary's Road, Market Harborough, Leicestershire LE16 7DU.

The last time I visited this restaurant for lunch was in May 2017 – a birthday present for a girlfriend and here we are again, a little later than we'd have liked but as we all know, life gets in the way.

These days you can view menus on line and I could have looked but resisted the urge. When I called to book our table I mentioned my favourite soufflé - a Twice Baked Red Leicester and Chive version - in the hope that I might be able to order two. Hold that thought – how delighted was I to be told that there was a Twice Baked Goats Cheese soufflé on the current menu.

I confess that after booking I couldn't wait any longer and peeked at the menu – it served its purpose – spoilt for choice and for me that's rare.

I've said before but am happy to repeat, Ascoughs' menus tempt you to try dishes with ingredients you wouldn't ordinarily choose.

The genius remains the same – the menu at the moment runs until 1^st September – 2 courses for £13 – 3 courses £17. Note to selves – you have to book, whether lunch or dinner.

Thought for the day … if you can remember how good a meal, or a specific dish was and that memory stays with you … pure joy.

Ascoughs Bistro – telephone 01858 466966

ascoughsbistro@aol.com

Mushroom paté – the pics and the twist

The twist is this – pushed for time – need inspiration? Take 150g of your paté, loosen it with 150g of double (heavy) cream and warm through. Hey presto, you have a mushroom sauce to serve with cooked chicken, fold through pasta and add whatever you find in a fridge forage.

By my reckoning a mid week supper would probably take the time it takes to cook the pasta and warm the sauce.

Ta dah!