Mishmash or Hash – II

From Ireland to Scotland – here's two more for you and here's a name to conjure with :

“Rumbledethumps”

This is the Scottish equivalent of bubble and squeak except that it uses leftover mashed potato and swede (turnip in Scotland, just to confuse you). It's served on its own or with a casserole or stew.

Rumbledethumps

600g mashed potato

400g mashed swede or turnip

75g unsalted butter

250g cabbage, finely sliced

25g grated Cheddar cheese

Pre-heat oven 180c/160fan/gas 4

Place the mashed potato and the swede in a large mixing bowl. Set aside. Melt 50g of the butter in your frying pan and add the cabbage and cook on a medium heat until softened but not browned. Add the cabbage to the potato/swede mixture, add the remaining butter and mix together. Season.

Place the mixture back into your frying pan, sprinkle with cheese and bake for 30 minutes until golden brown.

If you are a lover of root vegetables like swede or turnip then there's a second Scottish dish that you'll like – from Orkney, called Clapshot (aka neeps and tatties). Traditionally it's served on Burns Night with haggis.

Clapshot

500g floury potatoes, peeled and cubed, cooked until soft

500g turnip or swede peeled and cubed, cooked until soft

50g butter

1 small onion, chopped

2 tbsp chopped fresh chives

salt and pepper

Mash your leftover potatoes, swede or turnip, using 25g of the butter. Heat the remaining butter in your frying pan and add the onion – cook until soft. Add your mashed potatoes and swede/turnip along with the fresh chopped chives and seasoning. This dish can obviously be made ahead. To serve - you can continue to cook on the hob, turning to get an even crispy finish or alternatively pop into a pre-heated oven for 30 minutes, turning after 15 minutes.

There's no doubt that all these dishes are variations on a theme. In our house I cook parsnip and carrot together – commonly referred to as “parrots”. Mashed with a knob of butter and salt and pepper they qualify as an addition to the “fly by the seat of your pants”, “chuck it all in” method!

Mishmash or Hash

We have so many different “leftover” potato dishes from all over the UK – I suppose the most common in England is bubble and squeak – there are many more variations with some brilliant names too, so I thought I'd introduce you to a few.

The beauty of the following leftover dishes is that armed with your frying pan suitable for use in the oven - they are one pan suppers.

Adults and kids alike aren't keen on the green stuff like sprouts and cabbage and these days I'd bet that there are many out there who've never eaten swede or turnip! The beauty of swede, in particular, is that it's texture lends itself to mashing.

To kick off, if you'll pardon the rugby analogy, here are a couple of fine Irish examples and both recipes given are from scratch, just in case that's your preference :

Colcannon

Savoy cabbage, finely shredded – half a cabbage

approximately 350g in weight

30g butter

Bunch of spring onions finely chopped

1.5kg Maris piper potatoes,

Salt and black pepper

Cook the potatoes in salted water until tender, drain, peel and mash. You could use a ricer for guaranteed lump free.

Put the cabbage in a pan with the butter and cook over a low heat for 2-3 minutes until tender, stirring frequently.

Add the spring onions and cook for another minute or two.

Mix with the mashed potato and season well.

If you've cooked your potatoes ahead or are using leftovers, pop the completed dish into a pre-heated oven (200c/180 fan/Gas 6) for 20 minutes. You could use oven-proof ramekins and serve straight to the table.

Pea and Spring Onion Champ

1.5kg Potatoes, scrubbed

100g butter

500ml/18 fl oz milk (or if a richer consistency

75% milk to 25% double cream)

450g frozen peas

75g spring onions, chopped

4 tbsp chopped parsley

salt and black pepper

Cook the potatoes in salted water until tender, drain, peel and mash. You could use a ricer for absolute “lump free”. Add half the butter – 50g, after mashing or ricing.

Place the milk/cream in a pan with the peas and onions and boil, gently, for 4/5 minutes. Add the parsley, take off the heat.

Add the potatoes, keep some of the milk back – you may not need it all.

Season to taste and beat until creamy and smooth – add more milk if required.

Serve piping hot with a knob of butter melting in the centre.

N.B. If you wish you could add grated mature cheddar cheese.

Personally I'd never cook a dish like these from scratch – I have a “always cook more vegetables than I'll use” policy – it makes sense to have the wherewithal to create a quick “froven” (meaning frying pan to oven) supper. You can be healthy or not, depending on your mood – and the weather! As a vegetarian these recipes suit me well, but they are practical in that for those who like their meat you can serve with sausages, bacon, corned beef or gammon. You can be fancy if you want to and serve in rings and top with a poached egg, you can be as rustic or not as you wish but the result is the same, bags of flavour and ticks all the boxes.

A Reminiscence

Russian Fish Pie

and

Coulibiac

My passion for food and cooking came from school – long ago in the late 1960ies. It's not until many years later that I realise what an impact that education had. Times have changed – in those days cookery class was called “Housecraft” and “Domestic Science” - then it became “Home Economics”, evolving into "Food Technology" - what next?!

On the funny side, I can remember one of the first results I took home – biscuits – and I use the term loosely. They would have been better used as a crazy paving!

Fortunately for me my then teacher, Mrs. Mann, persevered and I did improve. I still make a dish she taught me, back in the day, although it will be no surprise that I've adapted it over the years.

Russian Fish Pie is not your everyday dish, it's a treat. Recent research shows me that it is very similar to Coulibiac – also Russian in origin. The original pie consisted of cod in a stiff parsley sauce placed in the centre of a puff pastry square, glued with egg wash and brought together to form four triangles all in one. My preference is to use a mornay sauce and to use a variety of fish.

Here's my version :

Russian Fish Pie

Serves 4

1 x 500g packet of puff pastry

  Pre-heat oven 160fan/180c/Gas 4

Approximately 500g of mixed fish –

smoked cod loin, salmon, and prawns.

¾ pint/450 ml milk

¼ pint/150 ml cream (you don't have to use

cream, increase to 1pint of milk if preferred)

salt, 8 black pepper corns

bay leaf

50g unsalted butter

50g plain flour

1 tsp Dijon or wholegrain mustard

150g (75g each) Red Leicester and Mature Cheddar cheese, grated

Roll out your pastry into a large square (approximately 24cm x 24cm) and place on a non stick (or greased and lined) baking sheet.

Poach your fish in the milk and cream, season with salt, black peppercorns and bay leaf on a medium heat for 5/10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets. Remove the fish, flake, allow to cool and set aside in a large bowl. Strain the liquor.

Melt the butter and add the flour to form the roux and cook for 2/3 minutes then gradually add the poaching liquor and cook the sauce on a low heat for about 10 minutes until the sauce thickens (it should coat the back of your spatula) add grated cheeses and mustard. The sauce should be stiff. Set aside to cool.

Tip half the sauce over the flaked fish, add the prawns and fold gently so that all your fish is coated. Reserve the remaining half of the sauce to pour over the pie.

Using a slotted spoon place the mixture in the centre of the pastry. Egg wash the edges and pinch together to form 4 triangles in a square. Egg wash the completed pie and bake in the oven for 40 minutes – check after 30 minutes. Cut into 4 individual triangles and serve.

To help you, here's a photograph or three:

Russian or not it's really moreish and the portions are generous so think carefully about what you would serve with it – a spot of fusion as an idea – a winter coleslaw I think would go very well – the rich pastry and filling with a crispy, crunchy fresh slaw – you could even kid yourself that it's healthy – ish!

In reality it's about as far from Russia as you'll ever get. The recipe probably came from Coulibiac – a Russian dish consisting of salmon, rice, mushrooms, onions and dill encased in pastry. It's thought that Auguste Escoffier brought it from Russia to France and included it in “The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery”.

Notes :

I always make more mornay sauce than required for the fish – it's an indulgence to have extra to pour over the pie.

An optional extra is to add chopped hard boiled eggs – it wasn't part of the original recipe from school but seems to be included present day. It's whatever floats your boat.

If you are using cooked, peeled prawns don't add them until you are mixing your sauce with your cooled cooked fish.

Whilst we're on the subject …

...of fish – inspired by the cookery class I took at Charleston Cooks! - after returning home I wanted to try and replicate the Lowcountry blackened seasoning.

Here are the results of my endeavours :

Blackened fish in the UK usually means a base ingredient of

balsamic vinegar or a teriyaki sauce. In the USA blackened

seasoning is very much part of the Lowcountry style of

cooking.

Blackened Seasoning

2 level tsps paprika

4 tsps dried thyme

2 tsps onion powder

2 tsps garlic powder

1 tbsp granulated sugar

2 tsps salt

2 tsps black pepper

½ tsp cayenne pepper

1 tsp sumac

1 tsp oregano

¾ tsp ground cumin

½ tsp nutmeg

Place all the above in a jar, shake and store in a cool dark place. Use for fish, chicken or seafood.

Blackened Cod

Allow 110-150g cod per person and cut into portions – it depends on the size of the appetites.

Using kitchen roll, pat the fish dry.

Coat the fish heavily on both sides with the seasoning.

Heat a frying pan over a medium heat. When the pan is hot, add either vegetable or rapeseed oil enough to cover the bottom of the pan.

When the oil is hot add the fish to the pan. Cook until the spices have blackened on the bottom, cooking times will vary according to the thickness of the fish.

Turn the fish and allow to cook through, reduce the heat as necessary.

Serve on a bed of samphire with baby new potatoes.

Samphire is a sea vegetable – there are two types, marsh and rock. It's similar to baby asparagus and is crisp and salty to taste. Wash thoroughly and then steam.

If you like gutsy flavours then this is the seasoning for you!

Speed Sweet

I give you TATT – or toffee apple tart tatin. This is the fastest tart tatin you'll ever make. I made the toffee apple base ahead and put it in the freezer. Along with the puff pastry sheet which likewise came from the freezer you can pull both of them out whenever the fancy takes.

Toffee Apple Tart Tatin

Pre-heat oven 180 fan/200c/Gas 6

6-8 large Cox's apples, peeled, cored and sliced

115g unsalted butter

125g soft dark brown sugar

1 orange, zest and juice

One ready to use puff pastry sheet.

6 individual circular tins measuring 10cms in diameter.

Place the apples, butter, soft dark brown sugar, orange zest and juice into a large frying pan and cook for 10 minutes until tender.

If you want to plan ahead you can prep ahead and freeze then assemble when you wish.

Roll out your puff pastry sheet and cut into six circles, using a ring that is at least the same diameter as the tin – it can be slightly larger. Spoon the toffee apple mixture into your tins and then add a puff pastry circle, tucking it into the tin.

Bake for 25 minutes.

When you are ready to serve – I would suggest you use a dessert bowl – place it over the tin and flip it – ensuring you do so away from yourself. Serve with clotted cream.

Here's my tip – which I think is actually mentioned on the instructions with the puff pastry sheet – to stop the sheet cracking when you unroll it let it “rest” at room temperature before use.

Moving on, and to help you with this recipe, here's a photograph of the individual tin I used along with the completed dish.

The Verdict …

I plucked up the courage and asked my guests to comment on the food – no obligation of course – here's what they had to say :

Retro Rooms

“Easy, quick and sooo delicious – would make a great starter for Saturday night in front of the television.

Such a simple supper dish but so tasty, easy to prepare – superb!

Absolutely delicious.

10/10.

Perfect light starter for a dinner party, loved the parsley on top”.

Smoked Fish Pie

“Light but tasty, sauce not thick but coated. Pastry nice and short. Looked easy to make, must give it a go. Filling delicious.

Perfect for meals in advance and didn't need to rest the pastry.

Pastry brilliant – 10/10.

Simple as pie! Pastry is light – fish and vegetables blend into a delicious medley.

A meal on its own, nothing else needed. Great pastry and tasty filling, wonderful!”

TATT

(Toffee apple tart tatin)

“Wow, what a dessert.

The best ever.

Simplicity and delicious too!

What can I say? We are never disappointed – 10/10.

Very easy dish and can prepare in advance – a dinner party special.

Simple yet impressive – melt in the mouth, would be equally great with the home-made ice cream”.

I've posted these comments so that you'll get honest feedback and know that the recipes are real, they work and to encourage you to give them a shot. I hope you do and they're a hit.

We had a blast, so much fun – thank you Ladies for your critiques.

Next up … techniques for your Smoked Fish Pie

You wouldn't describe the basics of a pie filling as technically difficult so lets get these out of the way.

The filling

*4 parsnips – peeled and cut into cubes of a

similar size and roasted

*6 shallots, peeled and into quarters and roasted

glug of rapeseed oil

salt and black pepper

petit pois – approx 6oz defrosted

*600g smoked haddock or cod – you could

use 300g smoked fish and 300g salmon, baked in

foil, cooled and broken gently into large chunks

*500g Charlotte potatoes, cooked, peel and cubed

-x-

Pre-heat your oven 180fan/200c/Gas 6.

Place your parsnips and shallots in an oven-proof dish (or in my case a foil version), season and add a glug of rapeseed oil. Roast for 30 minutes – turn after 15. Bake the fish for 15 minutes. Test your vegetables after 30 minutes – they should be firm. Set both your vegetables (covered) and your fish aside to cool.

All the ingredients marked * above can be made ahead.

The Sauce Supreme that completes your filling comes next and is a different kettle of fish (sorry!) and requires your full attention.

You'll need:

300ml cold fish stock

15g unsalted butter

15g plain flour

½ tsp Dijon mustard

200ml double cream

salt and black pepper

Melt the butter, take the pan off the heat, add the flour and whisk. Return to the heat and cook out the flour for 2/3 mins, stirring continuously – do not walk away.

Then tip your cold stock straight into the roux and whisk until smooth, then cook on a low heat for 15 minutes. Season with salt and black pepper.

Add the mustard and cream and simmer for 5 minutes.

Perfecting certain techniques and making use of stock you've created yourself (although not compulsory – you can buy it ready-made) to produce this delicious sauce, is very satisfying and definitely worth the effort – be patient! If you generate your own stock and freeze it – don't forget to label!

Mix your vegetables, fish, and sauce supreme together in a large mixing bowl and then place in your pie dish ready for its lid.

You might think that this is an unusual mixture of ingredients, so to explain myself - parsnips, peas and shallots are sweet, the smoked fish is salty and the potato gives a balance, a neutral flavour if you like. A word to the wise - other than the seasoning mentioned don't add any more salt. You've enough in the fish and in the stock. Taste your filling when it's ready and adjust if you need to.

Finally in this recipe, the technique of making ordinary pastry is easy for some, not so for others. Gluten free pastry appears to be more of a challenge, hence the demonstration and the recipe used is the one below :

Phil Vickery's gluten free

shortcrust pastry

225g Mix A (see at end of post)

pinch of gluten free baking powder

½ tsp xanthan gum

2 pinches salt

110g stork margarine

1 medium egg, beaten

cold water

Method :

Place flour, salt and margarine in a bowl and mix well.

Rub into fine breadcrumbs (you can use a food processor).

Add egg and a drop of water, mix well. The texture should be nice and soft – add a drop more water if required.

Roll out and use straight away.

Xanthan gum gives your pastry a stickiness – a substitute for gluten, it will tighten.

Here are my tips :

Be precise with your measurements – it's a science!

Texturally it reminds me of making dessert pastry – it's fragile so take it easy – be gentle.

Roll out your pastry onto baking parchment into your required shape and size then flip the parchment over onto your pie filling. The recipe given is perfect for a pie lid measuring 24x24 cms. If the pastry breaks don't panic – use the pieces to patch any gaps in the edges.

Pre-heat your oven 180fan/200c/Gas6.

Pop the lid onto your pie filling and bake for 30 minutes – check after 25 minutes – ovens vary. You should get a light tasty pastry with a good colour.

Serve!

I intended to photograph the pie – sadly it was demolished before I got the chance.

For Phil Vickery's Mix A

Mix A

350g fine white rice flour

100g potato flour

50g tapioca starch or flour

Mix thoroughly (can do in a food processor)

Store in an airtight container.