Mélange de Champignons – or a mixture of mushrooms!

Part 1

Mushrooms have always been up there on my top ten list of favourites.

My first contribution is a recipe that I invented in the USA when catering for a houseful of guests, some of whom were vegetarian. It proved to be a hit and has been repeated more than once since – even the most stalwart of carnivores enjoyed it. The plus with this recipe is that it stands on its own as a vegetarian dish but also lends itself as part of a larger menu.

Stuffed Portobello Mushrooms

(or Portabella!)

4/6 large Portobello Mushrooms

1 medium onion, finely chopped with a drop of rapeseed oil and a knob of butter

85g breadcrumbs (or if you want an alternative

use an 85g packet of sage & onion stuffing mix)

Garlic paste or 2 crushed cloves of garlic

Pine nuts (or walnuts if you prefer) – 50g (chopped chestnuts would also be good)

Small double cream - 150ml

3oz (75g) each of grated

Extra Mature Cheddar Cheese

Red Leicester

Gruyere

Salt and black pepper

4/6oz (100/150g) grated parmesan

Pre-heat your oven 200/180fan/gas 6.

Soften the onion and garlic with the oil and butter.

Remove and discard the stalks and set the mushrooms aside on a baking tray.

Place the breadcrumbs or stuffing mix into a mixing bowl, add the softened onion and garlic together with the pine nuts. Gradually add double cream to the mixture, it should be stiff. Add the grated Cheddar, Red Leicester and Gruyere, season well with salt and black pepper.

Dampen your hands. Take a handful of mixture and work into a firm mound and pack into each mushroom.

Sprinkle grated parmesan over each mushroom.

Bake and check after 15 minutes – depends on the size of the mushrooms, they should be nicely browned.

And my final tip - you can use the mixture, with less cream, to achieve a crumble consistency and use as a topping for roasted vegetables or fish.

Hope you like!

Mid-week mosey

Messing about in the kitchen developing a veggie dish, I needed a goats' cheese – a hard cheddar style version that would grate well and melt, as a topping for my dish.

I didn't need to look very far – Neneview Dairy is five minutes away – how great is that, artisan goats' cheese on my doorstep. I had spoken ahead to Chris at the Dairy and made an appointment to visit, and, to taste!

I know that there is a big divide out there – those who love it and those who loath and detest it – goats' cheese that is. I'm not sure what it is the “nays” are against – the archetypal image of a log or puck shape and the fact that it appears rolled in herbs, the flavour – usually sharp and salty, or the texture.

I implore you to get out there and taste these artisan cheeses. All of them made by Chris at Neneview Dairy are the hard variety and at present there are seven to choose from. I had a particular type in mind but nevertheless sampled them all – it would have been rude not to!

What I thought was really clever was that six out of the seven are named after the boot and shoe trade, so famous in Northamptonshire.

Needless to say I came away with three – one for my dish, called “Cordwainers” - a “Cheshire” type, “Redlands” a “Red Leicester” type and “Togglers” - a “Wensleydale” type. Check out the website, www.neneviewdairy.co.uk or email: NeneviewDairy@outlook.com.

Chris has plans for the Dairy in the pipeline so keep your eyes peeled!

Btw, the recipe is coming along nicely, so thank you for your cheese Chris

Bank Holiday Breeze

It's the last Bank Holiday for some time (I'm certainly not going to mention the next one!)

Here's a few menu suggestions for the day to make life easy and all of them can be made ahead – most of the recipes have already been posted.

If you want a “dive-in” starter what about “Crostini” mentioned in Lucky Dip. Here's another recipe for a Crostini topping :

Sumac-roasted Tomatoes

6 ripe tomatoes

salt and black pepper

light sprinkling of molasses sugar

olive oil

1 tbsp sumac

sprigs of thyme, leaves only

Pre-heat oven 150 (140 fan/300f/gas mark 2)

Cut the tomatoes in half and place on a baking try. Season with salt and pepper, add a light sprinkling of sugar. Drizzle with oil, then sprinkle with the sumac and thyme leaves.

Slow-roast the tomatoes until soft and beginning to caramelise, about 20-30 minutes.

Serve with thin slices of pecorino or feta cheese.

OR

the retro Baked Camembert mentioned in GOM: Chapter 8, here's the recipe :

Baked Camembert

250g Camembert

1 clove garlic or garlic paste

olive oil

Bread of your choice

Pinch of sea salt

Handful of chopped dried cranberries

Handful of chopped mixed nuts

Preheat your oven 180/350/Gas 4. Leaving the Camembert in the box, score around the top about half cm in and cut off the top layer of skin. Slice the garlic clove and poke into the top of the cheese. Drizzle with a little olive oil then bake in the oven for 15 minutes – or until gorgeous and oozy in the middle.

Serve the Camembert with warmed flat bread or French bread – dunk the bread into the cheese and then into the cranberries and nuts – repeat! Don't forget – a stapled box NOT a glued version.

Moving on to main course, slow cook a huge piece of gammon – smoked or not, in vegetable stock – prepare it when you have ten minutes – mission accomplished.

Serve the gammon with griddled fresh pineapple.

As for the potato section, roast new potatoes in their skins (drizzled with rapeseed oil and season - bake in a large foil tray).

If you want to be more fancy potato-wise, you could make the “Tartiflette” mentioned in GOM: Chapter 10. Again, this dish can be made ahead.

Vegetables, “Honey Roast Beetroot” from “Kitchen Investments and Wednesday Supper” and “Lemon Glazed Carrots” in GOM: Chapter 16.

and for pud, either “Lemon Tiramisu” in “Luscious Lemons” or “Orange Tiramisu” in GOM: Chapter 16.

Just thought that with a little forward planning you'd like the idea of not cooking at all on Bank Holiday Monday – you may have pop one or two bits into the oven but, I don't think that counts as cooking.

Happy Holiday!

GOM Chapter 20: The Gullah People and their Lowcountry cuisine

I know that this post isn't really anything to do with the GOM but I hope you'll agree that Gullah and Lowcountry cuisine is worth a mention – and my excuse is the GOM like their food!

The Gullah People are descended from African slaves, living in the Lowcountry region of the USA – in particular South Carolina and Georgia. Gullah has its own language a “pidgin” mixture of dialects of English, Scottish and African which evolved from the early settlers.

Gullah cuisine came from what the people could grow - crops that were the most reliable and plentiful – rice, corn, potatoes and collard greens (collards) to name but a few. Collards are similar to our “spring greens” or “spring cabbage”. They used pork and chicken and seafood too. Simple, humble ingredients made into dishes packed full of flavour.

I mentioned in GOM 11 and GOM 17 about Gullah cuisine and Lowcountry cooking. There are many influences in both, the African American Gullah, French Huguenot, English and Welsh, native American and Spanish.

Here's a few examples of what you'd see on a menu :

probably one of the most famous is She Crab Soup – it's a great example of fusion – a French bisque soup with crab meat added – it's divine.

grits – which always sounds so unappetising, is reconstituted corn used in all sorts of ways – fritters, with cheese and onion to make a “corn” cake and breads of course. Grits are most famously served with shrimp.

Succotash is a stew principally made from butter beans, stock and corn. Every time I hear the word it makes me smile, reminding me of the cartoon character Sylvester the cat and Daffy Duck who both used the catchphrase “sufferin succotash” - apparently the phrase replaced another, “Suffering Savior”.

Okra gumbo – a soup, thickened using a roux and then adding the okra along with either meat or seafood.

I have to include Rutabaga – just because I love the name - it sounds so exotic – it's a vegetable we know as swede, turnip or neeps.

Gullah Chef, Charlotte Jenkins used to have a restaurant, “Gullah Cuisine” in Mount Pleasant but sadly it closed in 2014 although I understand that the catering side still continues. Any collection of her recipes would be a worthy addition to your cookery bookshelf.

There's a lot of Gullah seasonings to suit every style of cooking which we'll have a look at in the future. The seasonings are easy to create yourself and share with a friend. It's different from a glass of wine although you could have both!

I hope you've enjoyed this small insight.

GOM Chapter 19: A welcome visitor and know your onions!

In GOM 7 I reported my hummingbird heaven and since that magical time, whenever possible, I've been present and correct on morning stakeouts around 11am. Patience rewarded at last, and this time I had witnesses - the GOM! In all honesty I can't say it was exactly 11am, nor that it was the same hummingbird - I'd like to say it was my original bird popping in to say hello but I think that's taking the realms of fantasy a little too far – hey, who cares, a morning treat – the sound from the beating of the wings is remarkable all the more so because the bird is so tiny, there's no better way to start the day.

Now for a little onion history - all hail the Vidalia onion.

There's a place called “Vidalia” in Georgia. The city is known as the “Sweet Onion City” and each spring heralds the Vidalia Onion Festival. First grown in 1931 and expected to be a hot onion crop it was a surprise that they were sweet! It is pale yellow, slightly squat, has a crunchy texture and better yet a sweet flavour with very little bite.

My first introduction to the Vidalia onion was years ago in Portland, Oregon. For those among us who don't like the archetypal onion ring, soggy and disgusting, please note that rings made from Vidalia onions are a unique experience and would convert the most sceptical. Since my first introduction in Portland every place I've visited in the USA has always included a search (mainly on restaurant menus and the markets) for the said vegetable, with little success.

In recent years visiting this wondrous place I've been able to get Vidalia onions and use them all the time, raw or cooked. I have driven my grumpy old man friend bonkers – he's an excellent and efficient shopper, consequently when the GOM are out and about on a quest of their own, they shop en route. If onions are on the list, it is specific, look for Vidalia. I can also reveal that when I mentioned my visit to “Edna's spice stall in GOM: Chapter 4” I bought granulated Vidalia onions and Vidalia onion spice mix – another result!

In recent times I've found Vidalia products, for example, a relish which is fantastic either as an accompaniment to BBQ or in that inimitable British favourite, a cheese sandwich – the simple things in life are the best. There's a selection of vinaigrettes, marinades and dressings not to mention a batter mix for the blooming onion (mentioned in GOM Chapter 12 The Outback).

You never know, on your travels, when you might come across a Vidalia onion and then you'll be glad you've read this potted history!

Break out the Brunch – Part 2

Now if you're really serious about this brunch, make a fruit compote – really useful, it can be used to top the pancakes, the pain perdu or you could treat everyone to some posh granola – I mentioned Daily Bread Co-operative in Northampton in “Outside the box – take II” they have a great selection of cereals.

Whilst on the sweet side, scones would be wonderful – served plain or with fruit and fresh fruit from the bowl with a spoonful or two of yogurt.

Cheese scones would make a great savoury contribution to a brunch. Most of you will have your own favourite scone recipe. Mine comes from Nigella's “How to be a Domestic Goddess” p67 – Lily's Scones.

Eggy bread. This can be made with white bread or brioche. 4 eggs, vegetable oil, 4 slices of bread. Crack eggs into a bowl and beat. Heat a drop of oil in a frying pan. When the oil is hot, coat one slice of bread in the mixture – once again a square foil tray works really well – place the bread in the pan and cook for 2 mins, turn and repeat. Repeat.

If you've any leftover mashed potato and any remnants in the grated cheese bag/box, potato cakes are a great way of using up leftovers, can be made ahead and very popular. You can add whatever you like including cooked veggies needing to be used up. Apart from seasoning with salt and pepper, try adding garlic or spring onion.

Corned beef hash. A great “houseful” suggestion. Two tips here, use tinned corned beef and keep it in the fridge – it's easier to cut into cubes when it's cold and, back to the old faithful, the jacket spud – bake ahead and then peel and cube. Personally I'd add onion, peeled and diced and in addition to salt and black pepper, a spice or two – a sprinkle of ground cumin and ground coriander works really well, but you know best the likes and dislikes of your family/guests. You can poshify (I know it's not a word - it is now) if you want – put it in serving rings and top with a poached egg.

A large can of corned beef is 340g – as a guide you'd probably use the same amount of potatoes but I really don't think it matters – live dangerously, fly by the seat of your pants!

If you want the easy route, serve bagels with smoked salmon and cream cheese, always a hit in my house.

Recently, enhancing the bacon butty, I topped and tailed cooked jacket potatoes, cubed and popped on a baking tray – salt and black pepper and a drizzle of rapeseed oil, in the oven 30 minutes – turning after 15, they vanished – it's good fun feeding teenagers!

All of the above and the previous post without mentioning bacon, sausages, mushrooms, tomatoes and baked beans – I hope you find some combination that will tempt you and yours!

Break out the brunch – Part 1

As it's the silly season, why not forget the normal weekend routine, throw caution to the wind and do brunch for a change. If you've visitors expected or just the usual summer houseful – all the kids together with friends of kids – all of whom are expecting to be fed, try these ideas on for size.

Pancakes aren't just for Shrove Tuesday. They can be sweet or savoury. Treat everyone with maple syrup to drizzle.

Pancake batter

Serves 8

100g plain flour

2 eggs

300ml semi-skimmed milk

1 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for frying

pinch salt

Put the flour in a large mixing bowl, add a pinch of salt. Make

a well, add the eggs, 1 tbsp of oil and a glug of milk and beat

like mad to make a paste. Add the remaining milk gradually.

Heat your pan, add a drop of oil and then wipe off. Add a ladle of batter

tilting the pan to ensure an even layer. Pour back any excess. Cook for

30 secs and then flip and repeat.

Can be made ahead.

Serve with a huge bowl of fab fresh seasonal fruit.

Pain perdu is lovely, especially made with brioche,

Brioche pain perdu

3 eggs

4 fl oz milk

4 fl oz single cream

Good pinch of ground cinnamon

4 tsps caster sugar

Few drops of vanilla essence or bean paste

8 slices of day-old brioche

25g/1oz unsalted butter

Circular cutter of your choice

Method

Beat the eggs in a shallow dish (or foil tray if you want to save on washing up!) with the milk, single cream, a pinch of the cinnamon and the vanilla extract (or paste if you prefer) to a smooth batter. Combine the caster sugar with the remaining cinnamon in a small bowl then set aside.

Cut the brioche into circles – two per person.

Soak the brioche slice in the egg mixture for two minutes, turning once.

Heat the butter in a frying pan then carefully lift the brioche into the pan and cook for two minutes on each side or until golden.

Place the pain perdu on a board, sprinkle with the cinnamon sugar.

BBB

(or Bread and Butter Brunch)

French stick (225/250g), preferably stale,

sliced

6 large eggs

200ml milk

200ml sour cream (or double will do)

1 tbsp Dijon mustard

salt and black pepper

Bunch spring onions, finely chopped

100g Mature cheddar

175g Gruyere

100g Red Leicester

(all cheese grated and mixed together)

Chopped chives to garnish

Your serving dish should be approximately 24cm square – greased if not non-stick.

Whisk together thoroughly in large bowl eggs, milk, cream, mustard salt and black pepper. Stir in the spring onions.

Arrange half the bread in the dish, overlapping slices to fit. Pour over half the egg mixture and sprinkle with two thirds of the cheese. Cover with the remaining bread, again overlapping the slices. Pour the remaining egg mixture over the bread, gently press down to help the bread absorb the mixture. Sprinkle the top with remaining cheese.

Cover with cling film and put in fridge over night.

In the morning take the BBB out of the fridge and uncover so that it can come to room temperature.

Preheat your over to 200c/180c fan/Gas 6. Bake for 40/50 minutes or until puffed and golden. Check after 40 mins.

Let it stand for 10 minutes to set the “custard” before serving. Sprinkle with chopped chives.

There's a recipe in “Nigella Christmas” p251 called “Triple Cheese and Onion Strata” - this is my tweaked version.

Eyes down for Part 2.